Friday, December 17, 2010
Phnom Pehn/Koh Kong
At Koh Kong we decided to hit the beach because it was so hot. It took us at least 30 minutes to find some scooters to hire because everywhere seemed to be out. At last we found a place that had only one which was all we needed cos Josh had headed back sick. Then some drama of sorts. We headed to the beach with Jamie driving and me (Jarryd) on the back. As we were heading down the road Jamie had a massive brain explosion and headed down a one way turn-off. To make matters worse four cops were sitting down on duty there and so they whistled at us to stop. It was at this point that we realised our brakes weren't nearly as good as they should've been so it looked as though we were trying to do a runner. Eventually we managed to stop about 15-20 metres down the road. The "chief" policeman explained to us what we had done wrong then was about to write us a ticket but it looked like it was too much effort for him to do so told us to pay a "fine" of 5000 riel ($1.25 USD) which he pocketed instantly. More drama was to occur down the road a bit when a car passed us. We moved over to the right to give them some room when we hit a sandy patch and sort of lost control wobbling a hell of a lot and hit some rough, bumpy patches. For a second or two I was preparing for a bad crash and was wondering how bad the damage would be (btw only the driver wears a helmet here) but luckily we survived as Jamie regained control. We finally got to the beach and rewarded ourselves with a relaxing swim in the warm surf and headed back but got caught in a torrential downpour but we managed to get back home home safe and in one piece.
Phnom Pehn
Finally we were back to a big city along with the hectic driving, noise and smells a big city brings. We spent the day getting orientated and checking the place out and at night we decided to check out the waterfront and chase the happy hour for cheap drinks.
Day two
We checked out Tuol Sleng Museum/S-21, the notorious former school which was turned into a prison where over 17,000 were imprisoned during the Khmer Rouge's regime. Out of the 17,000 prisoners only 7 were to walk out alive. All of the prisoners who went in were documented and it was quite eerie walking into a room and seeing their faces steering back at you.
Day three
We decided to go on a quad bike tour which took us to the Killing Fields then to the villages situated slightly out of town.
When walking through the Killing Fields of Choeung Ek hearing a childrens choir only metres away and seeing Angkor beer advertising adorning the park benches it was hard to imagine that most of the prisoners held in S-21 were brought here to be executed. The 17 tiers of bone in the memorial tower reminds you of this though.
Our guide who was a local Khmer and had lived in France for about 30 year took was on our scenic ride around the villages. As we drove though, we were welcomed by chorus' of hello's from the little children would then run out and give you a wave. At times it was hard to know where to look because you would hear a hello from the left and as you looked left others would rush out from the right. Josh had brought some sweets for the kids got absolutely swamped when he handed them out.
Day four
Our last day in Phenom Pehn we have woke up a little sick. Enough said. We toughed it out however and braved a 15 minute walk in the intense heat to go see the Silver pagoda and Royal Palace. We didn't read about the opening times so surprise surprise it was closed when we got there and wouldn't be opening for a couple of hours so we decided to hit the museum and get some lunch to kill some time before the pagoda opened again. We then hit another market and headed back home. Josh managed to pick up 2 watches for $20 finding out later on that 1 didn't work and Jamie managed to find a bottle of Smirnoff for $6 and CC for $9.
Pursat
That evening as we were trying to relax there happened to be a wedding or birthday downstairs just outside of the guesthouse which played music till late out of the biggest speakers ever. Safe to say we were all quite annoyed that night.
Thursday, December 16, 2010
Battambang
Our first full day in Battambang we hired a tuk tuk for the day and went out to check out the sites around the city. Our first stop was to catch the bamboo train which was basically planks of bamboo tied together which sat ontop of two bars with wheels and a motor. It was quite an experience and the bumpiness gave our arses still sore from two days of epic biking quite a workout. At times you could see when the tracks didn't quite meet up which meant preparing yourself for a bump.
We then headed for Phnom Banan, a Wat situated up a massive hill. I realised just how unfit I was when I found myself struggling only a third of the way up 358 stone steps. Although it was a mission to get there, the views were amazing.
Our last stop Phnom Sampeau was up another big hill. We all struggled this time as the day turned out to be an absolute scorcher. About halfway up we stopped to check out the Killing Caves which was a cave with a big hole at the top where the Khmer Rouge bludgeoned people and threw them into the cave. Didn’t think it was appropriate to take pictures because people were praying at the bottom.
That night there was a local circus with children performing which we decided to attend.
Day 2, Battambang
We decided to relax and take it a bit easier on our second day by taking a cooking class in the morning. The cooking instructor took us to the local market where we picked up some fresh ingredients to make our fish amok, beef stirfry and chicken & lime soup. All three dishes turned out delicious and we were even given a cook book so th at we could replicate these dishes back home. At one point we were offered some nice chillis to try which turned out to be a bad idea as we should've learned by now that our tolerance for extreme spice was pitiful. We all struggled for a few minutes afterwards, quote Jamie Stuart "guys I can't see a thing" as his eyes teared up. We took it pretty easy the rest of the day.
Siem Reap/Battambang
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Cambodia Border Cross/Siem Reap
After being told by informed sources, we decided to head straight to Cambodia after hearing Phiami and Phanom Rung weren’t as mind changing as we thought they might be, hence cutting 6 days off our travel schedule. So we headed straight for the border on a 7 hour bus ride. We always knew the Cambodian border cross would be ‘interesting’ and we were right. First hurdle was getting a visa, with officials saying it was 40USD to get a visa, when we knew it was 20USD. We ended up paying 25USD. Then we were escorted by some so called ‘Cambodian Official’ with a halfass security pass on him through our first check. After the first check we hit a no mans land between Cambodia and Thailand, where there were extravagant Casinos, Bars, Hotels, Strip Clubs etc, apparently the Thai mans paradise. Once through the official made us pay him personally and then way too much for for the taxi to Siem Reap. We thought our ordeal was over, when the taxi driver transferred us to a local tuk tuk driver on the border of Siem Reap, where it was apparently a free ride to our hostel. He reluctantly took us to our preferred hostel. Once in our hostel, he wanted us to go to another place so he could get a commission. WE obviously said no, and that’s when the fireworks started coming out of his mouth and our welcome to Cambodia was complete.
Putting that aside, Siem Reap which is the site of Angkor Wat, had it all!!!!!! Amazing ancient scenery, sore bums and the hangover from hell.
Day one in Siem Reap we decided to go the Museum and get an overview of what Angkor Wat is all about. All our questions were answered, but I cant really be bothered repeating it all, im pretty tired now. We just learned what was at the site and found out its actually an area containing many Wats, with the main ones being Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and the Bayon.
Day two we hired out some bikes, and made our way through the golden circuit which is basically the area outside the three main Wats. The share size of the area was massive, with Wat after Wat as magnificent as the last. Having the bikes helped us get around these fast and cover some serious miles. It was a good eye opener before seeing Angkor Wat planned for the next day. It was such a long day biking and i think we would have clocked up over 25kms on the bike. And HOLY, no amount of tiger balm would have healed the pain we had on our bums. We just had to suck it up like men.
We decided it had been awhile since we had last been out drinking so we decided we would hit TOWN, Siem Reap style. It actually turned out to be an amazing night, staying at a bar called ANKOR WHAT!! (nice little pun) .We got our first taste of what the buckets of alcohol might be like when we hit our party zone for new years. The main lesson we learnt, was that those buckets are STRONG!!!
Day three= Horrific. After the big night, we all felt pretty much like hell. So after heaps of water we jumped back on our bikes and made our way to Angkor Wat, Angkor Thom and the Bayon. Even in a state, we were amazed by the share size and architecture of all the Wats, and we captured some good photos. From what Ive heard, Cambodians are immensely proud of Angkor Wat and their history, they even have a picture of Angkor Wat on their National Flag. For me, I felt Angkor Thom and the Bayon was more impressive than Angkor Wat. It was like a maze of corridors, and some of us got lost (Jarryd). But overall, the area would have been incredible in its hay day.
WOW this place is amazing. It’s an area protected by the Thailand Government and has many rare and endangered species. It was only a small trip from Ayutthaya to Khao Yai National park, and we arrived about lunch time. We were staying at a place called Greenleaf guesthouse. They are recognized for good tours of the national park, but the accommodation itself is pretty basic. Having arrived around midday, we were able to do there afternoon tour. This included a swim at a natural spring, a bit of caving and seeing the best part of 2 million bats leave their cave at dusk. We have a video, and a few pictures from this half day tour.
As you can see josh and Jarryd were brave enough to put some cave insects on their bodies, me on the other hand Miles away, the Bangkok spider still in the memory!!!
The next day was the full day tour in the national park, 8am till 7.30pm. It started off on a rather frightening note with the tour guide giving us leech and tick protectors and showing us a sore on his arm that was created by a tick over a year ago. GOOD TIMES!!!!! but this was all forgotten with a great rare Hornbill bird spotted. These things have over 2 meter wing span, and they look amazing. You can even hear their wings pumping from ages away. Josh being the professional photographer got a good picture of it.
After showing us a few spots around the park, it was time to hit a jungle trek. The first thing we saw was a pit viper, a snake capable of killing us. The snake was apparently part of a litter of vipers that were in the area we were walking. The next encounter was with a scorpion hole. The tour guide spent about 5 minutes poking and probing this small hole before the Scorpion burst out. Turning around my fear of spiders, in what must be said a RASH decision after the tour guide said it was agitated, I put it on myself and near the throat region.
So we kept trekking through the jungle for another couple hours before we had some lunch. Some nice tofu and rice, YUM YUM!!! The rest of the day was spent visiting a magnificent waterfall, which was actually used in the movie ‘The Beach’, starring the man himself Leonardo di Caprio. Unfortunately one person, ONE PERSON decided to jump off at the wrong place, hence no one being able to jump off it any more. Theres always one!!!! The last part of the day was searching for Elephants. Success!!!!! It was a truly rewarding experience seeing an elephant in the wild, DOING ITS THANG, without being tied to a tree like a few places we have seen in South East Asia.
Overall an awesome experience at Khao Yai national park, especially getting a rare glimpse of some wild elephants.
Ayutthaya
The next place on the list was Ayutthaya, a small place 2 hours train ride out of Bangkok. It’s the old ancient capital of Thailand, and was used as a main trading route connecting Europe, South East Asia and China. It was convenient as a trading centre as its basically an island with a river running around it, making it accessible by boat. This is why there are a few old settlements from the Chinese, Portuguese and the Dutch on the island. Ayutthaya is a place that has a lot of Ancient Wats (temples) and we went about covering most of the main ones. I think we almost clocked up 13/15 in the 3 days we stayed there. We have a few pictures from some of the Wats we visited.
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Jamie